Campman treks to Chile

Back in April we took a little time off from the busy schedule to check out some new waters to fish in Southern Chile. We ended up on a two week 2500 km road trip that covered the gamut of Chilean Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego. We were in search of monster trout that are rumored to be inhabiting the streams of the region. With the help of a friend who had been interning at the Patagonia Expedition Race we mapped out our plan of attack.

First we flew into Punta Arenas, rented a truck, and picked up supplies for the next 5 days. The next morning it was off to Torres del Paine. Probably one of the most awe inspiring alpine vistas in the world. Big Peaks, lots of water, and glaciers dotting the landscape make it an impressive place to scope out. The place has all kinds of spectacular trekking and climbing available, but we were there to catch some fish. The King Salmon were still running and were easy to spot in the crystal clear water. Unfortunately the rivers were quite big and tough to wade. We had some interest as a couple chased our flies but the only one we reeled in was a half dead salmon that was snagged. The closest I got to one was just to take a picture. I was going to invoke the spirit of the grizzly bear and try and catch it with my bare hands but it swam off before I had a chance.

Next it was off to Isla Riesco and the lessor know Rio Grande. We had a tip on how good it’s supposed to be and since it was pretty out of the way on the map we’d figure we’d have it pretty much to ourselves. We couldn’t have been more wrong. Although its quite scenic and you fish the river at the mouth where it runs into the ocean and up, we found out its a really popular spot for the Chileans to camp and fish. Their generators, floodlights and all night parties kinda put a damper on the remoteness for us so we jetted out after one day instead of the 3 we planned on.

Next up was Rio Condor on Tierra del Fuego. However we had to restock our supplies first. So it was back to Punta Arenas for the night. A nice dinner, some Austral Calafate Beers (one of my new favorite beers), and a good nights rest and we were ready to attack the long day of travel ahead of us. First we had to catch the ferry across the Straight of Magellan to the Grand Island of Tierra del Fuego.

Then it was 7 or so hours on dirt road highways. However the last 4 hours were spent driving the last 30-40 km on one of the worst roads I’ve ever been on. It was a little stressful driving due to the fact we weren’t sure if the truck was going to make it. We did however and we pulled up to the cabin we were going to be staying at only to find someone was already there. The people staying there were the owners father and some workers who were building more cabins for the so called development. We all got along and they were very hospitable to us. They cooked up meals and drove us to the river. We ended up giving one of them our Jetboil PCS stove since he couldn’t stop talking about how cool it was and how much he wished he had one. I digress so now its back to the fishing exploits. The river was more the size of a slow moving spring creek. The last mile or two was the only sections we saw that had really nice water to hold fish. The Rio Condor has about six or so good stretches in this section. The first person in our group to fish these holes pulled out big trout. With the biggest probably being over ten pounds. All in all a good little stretch of water.

Finally it was off to the Rio Azupardo on Lago Fagnano. Lago Fagnano is a huge lake at the very southern end of Tierra del Fuego. You really can’t go much further south than this. It sits in a beautiful valley with view of the Coriderra Darwin or Darwin Mountain range. These are huge peaks and are quite impressive. The fishing here was about the same as everywhere else we went. Big expectations but came up short on delivering the mass amounts of monster fish. The water was big and made the river difficult to wade. This was compounded by the fact the we got storms that turned the water off color. The bright spot of this section of the trip was the mass amounts of Calafate berries, which are delicious, and the zodiac ride back to the cabin. The Chilean driver looked like an old gold prospector holding on to dear life on an out of control stagecoach while he was navigating 3-4 ft swells on the lake.

This marked the end of the fishing expedition. It was then back to Punta Arenas for one more night of fun and then off to Santiago for the next couple of days to sight see. Santiago is a beautiful city. Very similar to Salt Lake City except that it has 5 times the people and the Mountains are twice as big.

We would just like to thank Nemo Equipment for the loaner Moki tent. Just a quick review from our trip. We pretty much saw all the seasons while we were down there. We saw snow, rain, wind and sun. The Moki tent is the most bombproof tent I’ve ever been in. We had 30 mph winds and the tent hardly moved. We did get a little condensation on the walls on the tent when it got really rainy but this is par for the course for a single wall tent. Its very roomy and has tons of cool features. Its not the most compact and light of tents but when you are heading to a place where you are going to need a solid shelter like we did in Patagonia this tent is second to none. Highly recommended for trips into areas with bad weather potential. As advertised it is a great backcountry base camp tent. The vestibule keep all our gear out of the elements while still being outside the tent.

Campman.com, Chilean Flyfishing, Outdoor Activities, Patagonia Trip, Trips

Written by on July 1st, 2009 with no comments.
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