Campman Outdoor Gear & Apparel

Shopping for climbing shoes can be the first crux you come across in the vertical world. They come in all sorts of uncomfortable shapes and bizarre colorways, and if you’re simply shopping for a shoe that matches your outfits, you’ll likely end up climbing in incorrect footwear. We curated a list of climbing shoes to guide you through the wide world of vertical footwear. First, let’s cover a few distinguishing features that specify each shoe’s recommended use.

Quick Answer

The right climbing shoe depends on where you climb and how much you climb. New climbers want a flat, low-asymmetry shoe like the SCARPA Origin or La Sportiva Tarantulace for gym comfort. Sport climbers and boulderers want a downturned, asymmetric shoe like the La Sportiva Skwama, SCARPA Instinct VS, La Sportiva Solution, or SCARPA Drago for power on steep terrain. Trad and multi-pitch climbers want a flatter, more supportive shoe like the La Sportiva TC Pro or SCARPA Helix that stays comfortable all day. Everything in between comes down to profile, asymmetry, rubber, flexibility, and upper material, all of which we break down below.

Profile

A climbing shoe’s profile is the main determinant of its specific use. You can figure out a shoe’s profile by looking at its side. If the sole arches in a curve, called a downturned profile, the shoe is more appropriate for advanced climbers. Soles as flat as regular shoes give the performance and comfort that beginners need to focus on climbing classes and not foot pain.

That’s not to say that flat-profiled climbing shoes are only for beginners and downturned climbing shoes are only for experts. Some flat shoes were made for very specific styles of climbing like slab or cracks. Some downturned climbing shoes are surprisingly comfortable, and they could be designed for extremely thin cracks or long overhangs. They’re better once you have a few redpoints and onsights under your belt, but we’d recommend something flatter because they’re generally more comfortable.

Asymmetry

You’d think a shoe’s downturn would be the major factor in how comfortable it feels, but what’s more telling is a shoe’s asymmetry. To see its asymmetry, look at the shoe from the top or bottom. Imagine a straight line running from the center of the heel to the front of the climbing shoe. If the line reaches the center of the toe box, the shoe’s asymmetry is low. If the toe box is off to the side, then its asymmetry is high. The lower the asymmetry, the comfier the climbing shoe.

Rubber

The sole’s rubber might be the biggest selling feature and differentiator between brands. Many brands develop their own proprietary rubber formulas for specific types of climbs ranging from sharp-and-slippery limestone to greasy plastic in the gym.

Although they have their own rubbers, SCARPA and La Sportiva usually opt for Vibram rubber for its well-known, reliable traction. SCARPA and La Sportiva each use three different types of Vibram for specific applications.

Vibram XS Edge is a tougher, stiffer rubber compound constructed for technical climbs with plenty of edges. This rubber is often considered the best rubber for edging. Vibram XS Grip is the greatest all-round option, excelling in the gym, at the crag, and on boulders. Lastly, Vibram XS Grip 2 is especially refined for tough climbs like overhung boulders and competitions.

SCARPA and La Sportiva also have their own proprietary rubber. La Sportiva has friXion, and SCARPA has Vision. These rubbers are generally used for beginner climbing shoes because they’re a more affordable alternative to Vibram. And despite the cheaper prices they’re still solid sending tools.

Flexibility

Flexibility determines a lot about when and where you might choose to wear a specific pair of shoes. The stiffest shoes give great support for multi-pitches and dead-vertical climbs. Softer shoes excel on just about everything else. From slabs to overhangs, softer shoes adapt to the climb’s angle for better smearing on a variety of surfaces.

The main factor that determines a shoe’s flexibility is the midsole. Every brand has their own proprietary midsoles, but it’s more important to look at the midsole’s thickness. The thicker the midsole, the stiffer the platform. If you want to try the shoe pictured above, the SCARPA Vapor is in stock at Campman right now.

Upper

Uppers are composed of synthetic or leather, and usually have rubber covering the toe, heel, or the top of the foot. Leather uppers are prone to stretch for an adaptable fit that conforms to your foot shape. Synthetic uppers might not stretch as much as leather, but they make up for it with greater durability. Regardless of upper construction, if a lot of rubber covers the upper, then it’ll limit stretching, bolster strength, and make it easier to toe-hook.

Some uppers are unlined for greater pliability, stretch, and sensitivity. Uppers that are lined are generally more robust and longer-lasting. Some linings are cotton for extra softness, but most are synthetic for an extra layer of durability.

There are three different types of closures for uppers. Hook-and-loop straps are the most popular as they’re quicker to take on and off. Laces allow greater customization for a snugger fit regardless of foot shape. Slippers don’t have a closure at all, except stretchy side gussets that help with on-and-off.

SCARPA, La Sportiva, and Evolv

Now that we’ve covered the common features that all climbing shoes share, let’s dive into select climbing shoes by SCARPA, La Sportiva, and Evolv, all currently in stock at Campman. We organized them by their primary climbing practices: beginner, sport, bouldering, gym and competition, and trad.

Beginner

For beginners, we’d recommend the SCARPA Origin, La Sportiva Tarantulace, or La Sportiva Mythos Eco. They’ve all been fine-tuned for maximum comfort on the climb. The Origin is probably the most gym-friendly with its hook-and-loop closure. The Tarantulace is certainly the most budget-friendly beginner shoe.

The Mythos Eco was one of the first climbing shoes ever, and it’s certainly worth the price if you plan on jumping into the traditional style of climbing as soon as possible. It’s currently stocked at Campman in men’s sizing only.

All three have flat profiles and minimal asymmetry to deliver plenty of comfort for new climbers. They’re also all made of leather so expect some stretch. If you want to size down, we’d recommend only going a half size. It’s better to focus on comfort than performance when you’re learning the ropes.

SCARPA Origin

Men’s	Women’s

La Sportiva Tarantulace

Men’s	Women’s

La Sportiva Mythos Eco

Sport

Most beginners step into sport climbing as soon as they’ve learned a thing or two. Bolted lines seem to be the safest way to test everyone’s fear of heights. Sooner than you think, you’ll be testing your endurance on overhung routes at crags and gyms alike. For these intermediate-to-advanced climbers, we recommend the La Sportiva Skwama, SCARPA Instinct VS, or the Evolv Shaman.

Their profiles are aggressively downturned, and the asymmetries are moderate to high, meaning they’re on the comfier side of downturned climbing shoes. Sport climbers prefer slightly comfier options to boulderers because they’re on the wall a lot longer, and it’s a pain to take your shoes off when you’re hang-dogging between bolts.

The Shaman is Evolv’s original do-everything advanced shoe for bouldering and sport climbing, with a downturned last and a plastic love-bump midsole that maximizes edging power without the aggressive commitment of a full comp shoe. SCARPA’s Instinct VS is one of the most popular shoes out there. And the Skwama is a very tight-fitting slipper specialized for gripping miniscule footholds on overhangs. All three have plenty of rubber over their uppers for excellent toe-hooking and stretch-resistance. Some sport climbers will go down a full size despite the shoes’ limited stretch.

La Sportiva Skwama

Men’s	Women’s

SCARPA Instinct VS

Men’s	Women’s

Evolv Shaman

Men’s	Women’s (LV)

Bouldering

Some beginners turn to ropes, and others practice their power in the boulder fields. A dozen or so challenging moves take away all the strength in your fingertips. For bouldering, we suggest the La Sportiva Solution, SCARPA Drago, and Evolv Phantom.

All three have sharp asymmetries and high downturns designed for power and precision. They might be pretty uncomfortable, but they’re all quick-and-easy to take off in between burns on your projects. The Solution is the stiffest, most supportive option in the bunch. The Drago is built with a low-profile microfiber upper and surround rubber for hooking and smearing into pockets other shoes can’t reach, while the Phantom brings an extremely flexible heel and stiffer toe for a versatile performance on climbs of varying steepness.

Sizing down is pretty common in the bouldering community. Even though there’s plenty of rubber over the toes that resist stretching, a tighter fit generally means greater performance. But a too-tight fit can be unnecessarily hard on your feet, so we’d suggest sizing down no more than a full size.

La Sportiva Solution

Men’s	Women’s

SCARPA Drago

Evolv Phantom

Men’s	Women’s (LV)

Gym and Competition

For training sessions in the gym and competition climbing, we’d recommend the La Sportiva Solution Comp, SCARPA Instinct S, and La Sportiva Otaki. These are the most sensitive, performance-driven shoes on this list, built so climbers can feel the tiniest footholds for a greater chance at onsighting their way to gold.

The Solution Comp keeps the same aggressive downturn and high asymmetry that made the original Solution so popular, but softens the flex for the extra sensitivity that matters when every send counts. The Instinct S is a slip-on downturned shoe that’s quick to pull on and off between burns. And the Otaki brings a firmer Vibram XS Edge sole and an extreme downturn built for onsighting long, technical routes, bridging the gap between gym training and outdoor redpoint days.

It’s worth noting that comp-oriented shoes aren’t the most durable and don’t last very long. Their dedicated focus to performing perfectly during comp day or on a hard redpoint requires sacrificing longevity. Because they’re so soft, expect these shoes to stretch a full size, maybe more.

La Sportiva Solution Comp

Men’s	Women’s

SCARPA Instinct S

La Sportiva Otaki

Trad

Trad climbing is more gear-oriented than an actual style, but trad climbing shoes cover a variety of climbing ranging from single-pitch cracks to boltless faces and even multi-pitches as grand as Yosemite’s El Cap. Most trad climbing shoes are extremely comfortable with flat profiles and low asymmetries. Some shoes have a low-angle toe with a slight downturn for thin cracks. We suggest the La Sportiva TC Pro, Evolv Defy Lace, and SCARPA Helix for trad climbing.

With a higher cuff and plenty of support, the TC Pro is hands down the most popular option for big walls. A lower cuff makes the SCARPA Helix a much comfier option for shorter multi-pitches and even some day-long routes. The Evolv Defy Lace pairs a flat, slightly asymmetric profile with a perforated leather upper and a 3/4-length speed lace, making it a comfortable and confidence-inspiring choice for long days at the crag.

La Sportiva TC Pro

Evolv Defy Lace

SCARPA Helix

Men’s	Women’s

Climbing Shoe Comparison Table

Shoe	Category	Profile	Closure	Best For
SCARPA Origin	Beginner	Flat	Hook-and-loop	Gym classes, first pair
La Sportiva Tarantulace	Beginner	Flat	Lace	Budget-friendly start
La Sportiva Mythos Eco	Beginner	Flat	Lace	Early trad progression
La Sportiva Skwama	Sport	Downturned	Slipper	Small footholds on overhangs
SCARPA Instinct VS	Sport	Downturned	Hook-and-loop	All-around overhung terrain
Evolv Shaman	Sport	Downturned	Strap	Bouldering and sport crossover
La Sportiva Solution	Bouldering	Aggressive downturn	Hook-and-loop	Stiff, supportive power
SCARPA Drago	Bouldering	Highly downturned	Slipper	Steep, pulled-in terrain
Evolv Phantom	Bouldering	Downturned	Strap	Varying steepness
La Sportiva Solution Comp	Gym & Competition	Aggressive downturn	Hook-and-loop	Competition sensitivity
SCARPA Instinct S	Gym & Competition	Downturned	Slipper	Quick on-off between burns
La Sportiva Otaki	Gym & Competition	Aggressive downturn	Hook-and-loop	Technical onsighting
La Sportiva TC Pro	Trad	Flat	Lace	Big walls, high-cuff support
Evolv Defy Lace	Trad	Flat, slight asymmetry	Lace	Long days at the crag
SCARPA Helix	Trad	Flat	Lace	Shorter multi-pitches

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the best climbing shoe for beginners?

The SCARPA Origin and La Sportiva Tarantulace are the best climbing shoes for beginners. Both have flat profiles and low asymmetry, which keep your feet comfortable through long gym sessions and beginner classes.

Should I size down when buying climbing shoes?

Yes, but how much depends on the shoe and your climbing level. Beginners should size down no more than a half size, sport climbers can size down a full size on shoes with limited stretch, and boulderers often go a full size down for maximum performance.

What’s the difference between a downturned and a flat climbing shoe?

A downturned shoe curves toward the toe for power on steep terrain, while a flat shoe keeps a neutral profile for comfort and all-day wear. Downturned shoes suit sport climbing, bouldering, and competition, while flat shoes suit beginners, slab, and trad climbing.

What rubber is best for climbing shoes?

Vibram XS Edge is best for edging on technical routes, Vibram XS Grip is the best all-around option, and Vibram XS Grip 2 is best for steep, overhung bouldering and competitions. La Sportiva’s friXion and SCARPA’s Vision rubbers are budget-friendly alternatives found on beginner shoes.

Are leather or synthetic climbing shoe uppers better?

Leather uppers stretch and mold to your foot over time, while synthetic uppers hold their shape and last longer. Beginners often prefer leather for the break-in comfort, while advanced climbers who want a shoe to fit exactly the same every session lean toward synthetic.

What climbing shoe closure type is best?

Hook-and-loop straps are the quickest on and off, laces give the most customizable fit, and slippers offer the snuggest, most precise fit for bouldering and competition. Most climbers end up owning at least one of each type as their climbing progresses.

What climbing shoes are best for trad and multi-pitch climbing?

The La Sportiva TC Pro, Evolv Defy Lace, and SCARPA Helix are all built for trad and multi-pitch climbing. The TC Pro’s high cuff and stiff platform suit big walls, the Defy Lace balances comfort and performance for long crag days, and the Helix’s low cuff keeps shorter multi-pitches comfortable.

How long do climbing shoes last?

Most climbing shoes last anywhere from a few months to a couple years, depending on how often you climb and how aggressive the shoe is. Soft, sensitive shoes built for gym and competition wear out fastest, while stiffer trad and beginner shoes tend to hold up longer.

Conclusion

It’s hard to specify a primary recommended use for each climbing shoe. You could realistically climb a trad route with a La Sportiva Solution Comp, and it could be fairly comfortable if you didn’t size down at all. This is just a list of climbing shoes we’d recommend for each main style of climbing, and a little rundown of features to help you decide which shoe works best for you. Every shoe above is currently in stock at Campman, so browse the full lineup and find your next pair.

About the Author

Derek Newman

Born in the Wasatch, Derek has had an affinity for mountain life since day one. He was on skis the year he learned to walk, and as a high school graduation present he gifted himself rock climbing lessons. Nearly two decades later, Derek spends most of his time climbing up and/or skiing down most of the mountains around Salt Lake City, and he's traveled around the world multiple times for the sole purpose of peak exploration. When he isn't a man about camp, he's working in Campman's content marketing crew writing up blogs about backcountry skiing or rock climbing as well as describing products that he's used personally. He's climbed in most climbing shoes, toured on most backcountry skis, and ridden the resort on skis, snowboards, and even some evac sleds.