Buying Guide: SCARPA All-Day Performance Climbing Shoes
Posted by Derek Newman on 18th May 2023
SCARPA climbing shoes are divided into three categories: Specialized Performance, Performance, and All-Day Performance. This article focuses on the All-Day Performance line, but, in case you’re looking for something with a bit more downturn to it, you can also check out our guides to the Specialized Performance lineup and Performance shoes.
Hard sport crags and difficult boulder problems have certainly seen their fair share of SCARPA shoes over the years. SCARPA, after all, is one of the best climbing shoe brands on the market, offering a wide range of shoes for beginners, intermediate climbers, and even the pros. But this season marks SCARPA’s largest lineup since before the pandemic, treating beginners, trad climbers, alpinists, and big mountain climbers to more options.
With some of SCARPA’s most exciting releases for the S23 season and a host of well-known, and well-loved, classic SCARPA climbing shoe models, the All-Day line has a little something for every climber.
All-Day Performance
A note on sizing: SCARPA climbing shoes tend to fit differently than street shoes. For this reason, SCARPA developed a fit tool that you can print and use to guide your decision making process for shoe sizing.
You might already be thinking SCARPA’s All-Day Performance rock climbing shoes are solely for beginners, and while you’re mostly right, there are plenty of options worthy of ascents as extreme as El Cap itself. All-Day Performance shoes put an emphasis on “all-day” in that you can actually wear this comfortable footwear all day long. That makes this category appealing to multi-pitch climbers, guides, and even some alpinists as well as your average beginner taking classes in or out of the gym. Guides and alpinists can figure out which shoe’s for which, but for the sake of beginners, let’s delve into which options are best for them, and being a trad-lover myself, I’ll happily cover each shoe in this category.
Quantix SF
Best Use: Sport, Boulder
Expertise: Intermediate
It's surprising that the Quantix SF is the first shoe in SCARPA’s All-Day Performance category. A moderate downturn and moderate asymmetry better reflect the footwear found in SCARPA’s Performance collection, but after slipping them on, we found it remarkably comfortable for All-Day Performance. The Quantix SF is easier to keep on than the Instincts and Vapors for long periods of time, making it a perfect intermediate climbing shoe for climbers looking to step into a more progressive option that doesn’t break the bank (or their feet). We seriously can’t think of a better second pair of rock climbing shoes for most people.
Quantic
Best Use: Sport, Trad, Boulder
Expertise: Intermediate, Beginner
Similar to the Quantix SF—and not just by the name—the Quantic keeps comfort as a priority. Its downturn isn’t as sharp, and the fit isn’t as asymmetric as the Quantix SF, which means it’s an even nicer option for beginners wanting to advance without losing a toenail or two. Given its slight downturn and subtle asymmetry, this shoe is perhaps the most versatile option in SCARPA’s All-Day Performance collection. It’s a great intermediate climbing shoe for steeper routes at the crag, and plenty of rubber covers the toe for figuring out how to toe-hook creative boulder problems at the gym.
Veloce
Best Use: Gym
Expertise: Intermediate, Beginner
Speaking of the gym, the Veloce touts the same slight downturn and asymmetry as the Quantic, except this shoe thrives on plastic. It’s one of the first intermediate climbing shoes designed specifically for gyms. Most gym climbing shoes are super aggressive for competitive gym climbers. The Veloce’s more moderate performance paired with a comfier fit best suits those who love the gym but don’t quite need the aggression of SCARPA’s Performance and Specialized Performance footwear.
Generator
Best Use: Trad
Expertise: Beginner, Intermediate, Advanced
Generator Mid
Best Use: Trad
Expertise: Intermediate, Advanced
Finally, we can get to SCARPA’s new Generator series of rock climbing shoes in the All Day Performance category. Available in a standard low-cuff or a traditional mid-cuff height, the Generator best suits trad climbers of all shapes and sizes. Whether you’re dozens of pitches up and way above your last piece of protection, or you’re sewing an impressive amount of gear in a splitter crack, the Generator is SCARPA’S latest solution for the “Trad is Rad” aficionados. It bears a similar resemblance to most mid-cuff climbing shoes, except with a bit more downturn that enhances aggression. Expect more reliability in thinner cracks and the ability to generate a surprisingly powerful toe-off when you push off the last foothold to reach the anchors. It’s also worth noting that the Generator shoes are the most expensive shoes that SCARPA makes–even pricier than Specialized Performance. Sorry, trad dirtbags.
Helix
Best Use: Sport, Trad, Boulder
Expertise: Beginner, Intermediate, Advanced
The Helix has been a staple in SCARPA’s climbing footwear for years and years. Guides and trad climbers alike will appreciate its All-Day Performance with long-lasting comfort. Not only does the exposed suede upper stretch to conform to most foot shapes comfortably, but the padded air mesh tongue is also particularly pleasant when you’re patiently belaying beginners.
Origin
Best Use: Sport, Trad, Boulder
Expertise: Beginner
The Origin commemorates SCARPA’s high-quality history with an old-school design that climbers of all ages can appreciate in their first years. It’s super comfortable with plenty of padding and a supportive midsole that helps you focus on your footwork instead of how bad your toes feel. Even the comfiest of SCARPA climbing shoes can be a pain for beginners, but the hook-and-loop straps ease on and off between routes. And although they aren't cheap climbing shoes, they do feature an affordable price tag that lets curious folks dip their toe into the vertical world without breaking the bank.
Force V
Best Use: Sport, Trad, Boulder
Expertise: Beginner
Next, we have the Force V, which is very similar to the Origin in that it’s super comfortable and beginner-friendly. One slight difference you’ll notice is a higher price tag, and like the mantra of most climbing shoes, it’s all about the rubber. For the Force V, SCARPA opted to use Vibram’s XS Edge rubber, also found in high-performance models like the Boostic. Such spectacular traction can make or break your first climbing adventures. Get a grip and find a lifelong love for climbing with the Force V.
Reflex V
Best Use: Gym
Expertise: Beginner
Lastly, the Reflex V shares a comfy fit and beginner performance like the Force V and Origin, except that it is made for the gym. What makes it gym-specific? For starters, the upper is more breathable than any other SCARPA shoe. It’s a stretch-knit upper that conforms to your foot comfortably like leather, except an open mesh knit style ensures plenty of ventilation for airy comfort at the climbing gym. Apart from that, it has the same features as the Origin. Expect plenty of comfort at the climbing gym without any of the musky smells that all climbing shoes expel after a long, sweaty gym session.
SCARPA Climbing Shoes: All-Day Performance Conclusion
All-Day Performance provides the comfort that trad lovers and beginners need. Whether you need a shoe that can help you understand the basics while pulling on plastic or something you can wear while climbing the Grand Teton, you can find it here.
About the Author
Derek Newman
Born in the Wasatch, Derek has had an affinity for mountain life since day one. He was on skis the year he learned to walk, and as a high school graduation present he gifted himself rock climbing lessons. Nearly two decades later, Derek spends most of his time climbing up and/or skiing down most of the mountains around Salt Lake City, and he's traveled around the world multiple times for the sole purpose of peak exploration. When he isn't a man about camp, he's working in Campman's content marketing crew writing up blogs about backcountry skiing or rock climbing as well as describing products that he's used personally. He's climbed in most climbing shoes, toured on most backcountry skis, and ridden the resort on skis, snowboards, and even some evac sleds.
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